Disclaimer: The information below is a compilation of personal experience, information and advice that I have obtained while owning and researching these animals. It is of a general nature and is not intended as a substitute for professional medical advice or an individual personal consultation. This is by no means an exact or complete care guide. Presented here are some of the most important care items that I have learned from personal experience, books and from the web. I try to answer the most commonly asked questions. Everyone who breeds or sells any animal seems to have their own opinion and methods regarding their care. So you will have to determine the method that works best for you, while keeping your animal’s health and happiness foremost in your decisions. Please consult a veterinarian in person if you think your animal is sick. If your animal is bleeding, unresponsive, paralyzed or has any severe problem, take them to a DVM immediately. Always get care information before you buy your reptile and bring it home. Never buy on impulse.
The best thing you can do is to have furniture and fixtures that are easy to clean. Note that stress or illness may increase the likelihood of nasty bugs in your dragons stool, so be especially careful to follow sanitary precautions around sick or injured Beardies. Cleaning is the general removal of debris, food, feces, urates… that contributes to the proliferation of bacteria and diseases. There is a huge difference between cleaning and disinfecting, they are 2 seperate things all together. You will need a variety of disinfectants. Bacteria and parasites can grow immune to disinfectants over time so it is always a good idea to rotate the types you use. To disinfect surfaces, generously apply the solution to the surface with a saturated cloth, sponge or spray bottle, or let the object soak in a container of the solution. Let the solution sit for at least 15-20 minutes. To sterilize, let the solution sit for at least one-half hour (be sure to check the manufacturer's directions to see if a stronger solution is necessary for sterilization.
It is important to note that a cage not clean of surface dirt can reduce the effectiveness of the disinfectant or even render it inert. Surface dirt must be cleaned off so the disinfectant can be most effective.
Liquid dish detergent diluted in warm water is an example of a good cleaning agent. However, soap residues can inactivate some disinfectants.
Vinegar used in various concentrations can be effective against most bacteria and a large number of molds and viruses. To make it more effective it can be used in conjunction with hydrogen peroxide.
Ammonia and Chlorine are the two most common used cleaning agents. An ammonia solution of 3.5 ounces per gallon of water is an effective disinfectant. Chlorine bleach solution (5% solution, 4-6 ounces per gallon of water,) is frequently used as well. Although cheap and effective, it is also dangerous when used in closed spaces due to the toxic fumes.
WARNING: Most people are not aware that some household dishwashing soaps and other cleaners may contain ammonia or bleach. Caution should always be taken to never mix ammonia and chlorine bleach as it will produce a toxic chlorine gas. If there is any doubt about your ability to thoroughly rinse out an enclosure, think twice about using bleach or ammonia. Any residual of these substances left in the tank can cause severe, if not fatal problems for your animals. Both substances produce strong fumes which can cause internal and external irritations. Cutaneous absorption of these products could prove to be fatal. Some containers used in animal housing are not totally impervious to these products. Plastic and wood tends to retain some of the cleaning agents and disinfectants. Do not use soaps or cleansers containing pine scents.
Bacteriostatic cleaners inhibit growth and reproduction of the bacteria. They are more expensive but are worth it in my opinion. The types I use are Chlorhexidine and Ammonium chloride for cleaning cages and Triclosan for cleaning hands. I also use an instant hand sanitizer after washing and in between cages.For sterilizing wood, you can use chemicals or you can use heat. By placing wood logs or branches in an oven at 200F for 2 hours, you can kill the bacteria deep inside the wood.
Cleaning Equipment and Supplies
You will need various supplies depending upon your substrate and furniture.
- disposable gloves
- spray bottle
- (electric) toothbrush, scrub brush
- scrapers (such as a putty knife)
- 2 large buckets to soak furniture (bowls, rocks, hides…) and for the rinse water
- Sponges, paper towels, clean cloth towels or rags
- If you use sand, you will also need a fine mesh strainer and shovel.
(Utensils should be washed in soapy water and then soaked or sprayed with a disinfectant and set out to dry for 30 minutes.)
You may want to use rubber gloves as well. I also highly recommend a wet/dry shop vac.The first step in cleanliness is your hands. Always wash your hands with soap and water before and after handling any reptile or touching anything in their cage. Washing your hands does not mean running them under the tap and rinsing them off. To wash properly the soap must sit on your hands for at least a minute but several minutes is better. Additionally, I recommend a bottle of Purell next to the cage to clean your hands before and after touching your BD or anything in the cage. When you have more than one enclosure keep in mind it doesn't make sense to use disinfectants if you spread poop, dirt and germs from one animal's enclosure to another on your hands or utensils. Cross-contamination will spread germs quickly. A separate set of equipment and supplies for each type of animal, snakes, lizards, turtles… is best.
Cleaning entails several routine procedures. Every day you should check to make sure that the food and water bowls are clean and fresh. Check for fecal matter and urates in, on, and under any furniture. If you use shelf liner or other cleanable material, spot clean it as often as possible (at least twice daily). Most of this can be done with a paper towel and soap or chlorhexidine. I prefer paper towels over rags or sponges to prevent future contamination. You may need to scrub with a bristle brush at times. An old toothbrush works well for small areas. An electric toothbrush takes the effort out of it. You can then wipe the surface down with chlorhexidine and let dry. If you are using sand as a substrate, I recommend a shop vac. You can use it to spot clean the sand. You can also use it for picking up food and other messes in the cage. Make sure to remove your BD so as not to accidentally “clean him” with the vacuum. You can also use a kitty litter scooper or fine mesh screen. With sand, I recommend sifting it weekly to remove anything buried that you might have missed. Make sure your BD is removed from the cage so he does not inhale the dust from stirring up the sand. Sand does hold odor and you may opt to change it every few months. Shelf liner can be swapped out weekly so it can go in the wash.
If you have a parasite problem, you must sanitize your cage. This can be done with a variety of cleaners but I like chlorhexidine and ammonium chloride best since they are safest. Remove any surface dirt and then spray the solution and let it stand for 30 minutes. Rinse thoroughly and completely. You should use a bristle brush for any porous surface. If you use bleach, a lingering scent can kill your BD! This is especially true with porous surfaces like wood or clay. It may take days for the bleach to clear. Make sure all bleach odor is clear.Keeping your Beardies cage free of dirt and germs is an important part of good husbandry. Proper diet and temperature are important too. Learn as much as you can about the animals in your charge. Please don’t make Beardies disposable pets.