Disclaimer: The information below is a compilation of personal experience, information and advice that I have obtained while owning and researching these animals. It is of a general nature and is not intended as a substitute for professional medical advice or an individual personal consultation. This is by no means an exact or complete care guide. Presented here are some of the most important care items that I have learned from personal experience, books and from the web. I try to answer the most commonly asked questions. Everyone who breeds or sells any animal seems to have their own opinion and methods regarding their care. So you will have to determine the method that works best for you, while keeping your animal’s health and happiness foremost in your decisions. Please consult a veterinarian in person if you think your animal is sick. If your animal is bleeding, unresponsive, paralyzed or has any severe problem, take them to a DVM immediately. Always get care information before you buy your reptile and bring it home. Never buy on impulse.
Housing
A: Never put 2 mature males together. They will more often than not fight and one or both can be hurt or killed. Generally, only females will get along but that is not a guarantee. Always, always, always quarantine new animals for a minimum of 90 days and get a fecal done before they are introduced to other Beardies.
Q: How big a cage do I need?
A: Adult dragons should have at least 6 sq. ft. of floor space. 2’ X 3’ is good, 2’ X 4’ is great.
Q: Can I use a hotrock for heat?
A: NO! Do not ever use a hotrock. Dragons should get heat from above with a basking lamp. The hottest spot should be 105F-115F so they can properly digest their food.
Q: Should I use a heat light at night?
A: NO! Beardies can see the light and black lights are bad for their eyes. The cage should be dark to allow them to rest and cycle properly. Night time heat is not needed unless temps drop below 65F inside the cage. If that is the case you can use a ceramic heater for heat from the top or a UTH (under tank heater) if it is feasible. Generally, if you have a sand bottom, the UTH will not penetrate because the sand will insulate it
Q: What should I use on the bottom of the cage?
A: The list of what people use is quite long. When they are under 10”-12” I recommend, non adhesive shelf liner as it is non slip and easy to clean. Any particulate substrate like wood, sand… can be ingested and fatal for small Beardies. As they get older I put them on washed play sand available in most hardware stores. You must clean it daily so it doesn’t smell. I use the play sand because I think my Beardies love digging. This is why it is messy. Some people use shelf liner and then have a sandbox as well. There are people keeping Beardies on other substrates successfully, but I do not recommend anything other than these 2 choices.
Q: What about Calcium sand or wood chips marketed as safe for reptiles?
A: Many products are marketed as safe for reptiles. They are not! It is that simple. Don’t use them. Sand and other particulates cannot be digested can puncture or clump up and block the intestinal track. Only non adhesive shelf liner is 100% safe. It will not harbor bacteria either if cleaned properly.
Q: What furniture does my Beardie need in his cage?
A: Use as little as possible. Furniture (rocks and wood) are a great place for live prey to hide. These little buggers will come out at night and make a meal of your Beardie so use caution. It is also a place that harbors bacteria. Beardies poop on everything including themselves. The less furniture, the easier cleanup will be.
Q: What about a hide?
A: A hide is a confined hiding places that allows a Beardie to feel safe from large predators as well as a place to get out of the light and go to sleep. Some Beardies will use them and some won’t go in them only on them. I offer it and let them decide. Just remember that your Beardie will likely climb on it and poop on it so get one that is easy to clean.
Q: Can I use tree branches from my yard in the cage?
A: Use dried out wood. Soak in a 10% bleach solution for several hours then let dry until there is no smell. Fumes are toxic, be careful. You can also bake it for several hours at 200F
Q: What is a UV light? Do I have to use one?
A: UV is ultraviolet light. The sun provides UVA and UVB that your Beardie uses to manufacture vitamin D3. This is needed to absorb and use the calcium ingested to stay healthy.
This is a hotly debated topic. I believe it is better to err on the side of caution and use a good UV light. It is my experience that Proper UV lighting can help some Beardies maintain better color, have a better appetite, grow and thrive. This is not true in all cases and there are breeders who raise their Beardies with no UV light, just supliments and have no reported problems. There is a smaller margin for error however when you rely strictly on supplements. There are many UV lights to choose from. There are also many BAD UV lights that do little or nothing in the way of UV. For florecent UV lights I believe the standard is the Reptisun 5.0.
Updated 1-1-05