Disclaimer: The information below is a compilation of personal experience, information and advice that I have obtained while owning and researching these animals. It is of a general nature and is not intended as a substitute for professional medical advice or an individual personal consultation. This is by no means an exact or complete care guide. Presented here are some of the most important care items that I have learned from personal experience, books and from the web. I try to answer the most commonly asked questions. Everyone who breeds or sells any animal seems to have their own opinion and methods regarding their care. So you will have to determine the method that works best for you, while keeping your animal’s health and happiness foremost in your decisions. Please consult a veterinarian in person if you think your animal is sick. If your animal is bleeding, unresponsive, paralyzed or has any severe problem, take them to a DVM immediately. Always get care information before you buy your reptile and bring it home. Never buy on impulse.

A Beardie Shopping List

Cages
Enclosures come in a wide variety of sizes and materials. Glass tanks are the most common but high tech plastics are gaining in popularity. Many say a 55 gallon tank is the smallest enclosure suitable for Beardies. I recommend an enclosure having a minimum of six square feet of floor space. Price Range $100-$300 and up.

Lighting, Heat and UVB
Beardies need an external heat source to regulate their body temperature. That heat needs to come from above just like the sun. Something else the sun provides is UVB light. While it is arguable that UVB light is not absolutely necessary for every Beardie to survive, it can be essential for a Beardie to thrive. It definitely can make a difference, especially with babies. You can buy lights that produce both heat and UVB light (Mercury vapor) or get separate fixtures for each. A deciding factor may

be the distance the light is going to be from your BD. The UVB from mercury vapor lights travels further and they range in price from $30-$70+. Some MVB lights require a ballasted fixture that can cost extra. Others are self ballasted and can use a regular screw in fixture. Heat lights cost $5-$15. I recommend a ceramic fixture for all heat producing bulbs, especially those over 50W. Ceramic fixtures run about $15-$20. Florescent UV lights range from $15-$30 for the bulb. Florescent fixtures can range from $7 to $40.
You also need a way to measure the heat. Digital thermometers and temp guns range from $10-$25. Use an appliance timer for the lights and heat so they turn on and off the same time every day. $10-$20.  For even better temperature control, you can use a thermostat too. $20-$120. If you live where your house temperatures drop below 60F you may also want a CHE (ceramic heat emitter) or heating pad. $20-$40.

Furniture
When choosing furniture for your Beardie, try to always pick out things that crickets can not hide in. Porous materials like wood are also harder to clean and disinfect. You will need a hide, a basking perch or rock, a food bowl and in some cases, a water bowl.

A hide can be as simple as a shoe box, a hollow log, a rock cave… $20+
The basking area can be a log, brick, stone… choose something easy to wipe clean. $10-20+
Ceramic food bowl $2   Water bowl $10
Total furniture $40-50 and up.

Substrate   Sand or shelf liner
I recommend non-adhesive shelf liner. It is the easiest to clean and maintain as long as you stay on top of it. Some people prefer sand, especially if their Beardie likes to dig. Use washed play sand from a hardware or garden store, not calcium sand. Simply use a kitty litter scooper to scoop up poop and sift the sand on a regular basis.
Price - $5-$10

Cleaning supplies
One gallon Chlorhexidine 2% Disinfectant concentrate (Nolvasan) (makes 20-30 gallons) $20-$50
Bleach, 3 spray bottles, paper towels, putty knife, bristle brush $15-$20
Instant hand sanitizer should be kept next to the enclosure to clean your hands both before and after handling your BD. Price $5.00
You can also get a plastic sweater box to keep everything in and when the cage is being cleaned, use the box as a bathtub so your BD can relax and watch you work.

Food 
Live feeders - depending on the age and size of your BD and how much live prey you want to feed prices will vary greatly. Crickets can coast as much as $.10 each at retail pet chains and as little as $10 a thousand via the net. They only live 8 weeks and grow fast so buying in bulk and trying to stretch them out over several weeks may not work unless you start with crickets one size smaller than what you need. Young BDs can eat upwards of 100 crix a day. This figure is the high side but it is realistic. You can also offer other insects like worms and roaches. Prices will vary. Container for feeders $10
Supplements – Calcium and vitamin supplements usually run $5-$10 depending on brand and where you shop. Younger BDs need supplements every day while older ones only need it a couple of times a week. A container of each should last over a year.
Probiotic – This product is very handy to keep around. It promotes good bacteria needed for proper digestion and is essential when treating for parasites with sulfa drugs. It works the same way that acidophilus works for people. Price under $10
Salad – Variety is essential in getting a BD to eat. Greens should be the staple in a BDs diet and other veggies and occasional fruits can be added. You can buy bags of prepared fresh greens in the grocery store. You can even buy frozen to keep on hand in case of a shortage. Depending on your BDs taste buds and how badly you want to spoil him, greens should run just a few dollars a week.
Prepared whole foods – Pelleted food ranges in price based on brand and quantity. Small containers of 4-6 oz may go for as low as $3.00 while bulk prices drop to about $15 for almost 5 pounds. Complete foods come in powdered form as well and sell for as much as $5.00 for a few ounces or as little as $30 for 2.5 lbs in bulk form. Prepared foods go a long way so it is relatively inexpensive to use.
Depending on your BDs age, size and diet you can expect to spend about $10-$15 a week. (this price may vary greatly based on feeder insects you choose)

The Vet
I recommend at least one fecal a year for your Beardies. One before brumation and if you are planning on breeding, another before the season starts. Just bring a fresh stool sample to the vet and have it checked for parasites. COST $15-$25. Usually for an extra $10 you can get a gram stain done to check for bacteria too.

You should also be prepared for additional vet bills. Things can always “come up”. If your Beardie does have coccidian, giardia, hooks or other parasites or bacteria, even without a vet visit, you still need to pay for medications as well as following quarantine procedures and sterilizing the cage area. Respiratory infections, fractured bones, fungal infections, MBD, egg binding, prolapses and more can also unexpectedly become a financial drain. Be prepared for these expenses as they will all require immediate veterinary care.

So to set your BD up right and keep him healthy, you will need to invest between $370-$900* or more plus the cost of the Beardie and then provide regular upkeep. Are you ready?

*Prices are based on average prices I have found, your prices may vary.

Please don’t make Beardies disposable pets!

Here are some sites I have found to be usefull. Links Page
This does not constitute an endorsement of these sites.